December 8, 2017 at 4:04 pm #15402
John mentions a talk about —-effectively darkening areas in a photo which are too bright and lacking in detail.—Well my first thought is –getting it right in camera. Surprised such a basic point is worthy of club discussion. This is about getting the exposure correct in camera. With negative we exposed for the shadows. With slides we exposed for the highlights. Much depends on the subject , if the highlights are a mostly important part of the picture –there is the exposure setting. So many facilities in digital cameras to have the image perfectly exposed and colour balanced. I believe so many people just point and shoot and work it out in PS. What you call “experts”. LOL Chance soon to practice—Snow scenes which are not burnt out.December 8, 2017 at 6:08 pm #15406
This issue came about when we viewed a portrait in the L&CPU portfolio where the light had caught the persons hand causing a distracting highlight. Ian Whiston pointed out that it was very easy to eradicate distracting highlights like these. He recommended that anyone who wasn’t sure how to do to view some tutorial videos on the Catchlight Camera Clubs website at:
Like you say Ken a skilled photographer can control his exposure to reduce highlights but it’s not always possible to record all the tones in high contrast situations.December 8, 2017 at 6:26 pm #15407
Thanks Peter sorry I could not be there. However if this was a portrait (assuming a portrait under full control )let there be no excuses for not taking the picture less all is perfect. In the good old days we would take a light reading of the highlights so as to obtain the prime exposure. Digital cameras do have “spot meter reading” –and this should be used for a serious portrait and getting it right in camera will produce the best end result.All so easy with modern cameras. Just stood in my doorway as almost dark- with extreme exposure problems, but needed no PS.December 8, 2017 at 6:26 pm #15408December 9, 2017 at 8:22 am #15409
The Catchlight Club site has some Ross McKilvey video tutorials on it which I think is what Ian was referring to – but I have scanned them all and found only a brief reference to the sort of problem we were talking about. It is in the first video on Dark Statue. It is near the end. It is not as helpful as it could be because he uses actions in Ps to actually create the settings.
I was thinking that the technique referred to was to restore some texture to burnt out areas – it is definitely NOT that, it is just for the most subtle adjustment.
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