This topic contains 18 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Anonymous 5 years, 5 months ago.
January 24, 2013 at 12:19 pm #2865
It could just be me … but I couldn’t help thinking that there wasn’t just an issue with the projected copies of the mono prints from other clubs last week. I thought all mono images including those from our own club displayed far from their best. Coloured images were fine. I am hoping this is fixed for tonights competition as those of us with mono images in will be at a considerable disadvantage and it would certainly put me off entering any B/W images in the future if the current projector settings were to stay.
I am sure it is not easy to find a balance but I do think last week was the worst I have seen mono images displayed at the club.January 24, 2013 at 3:04 pm #2867
Margaret and John Sixsmith’s images projected perfectly well, and they said so.
The mono images last week were poor anyway – they were greyscale copies and over exposed, so thet lost any toning and looked poor.
I have spent some time with the Spyder 3 making calibrations for the projector. They varied from too red to absolutely awful and I had to delete them all from the sysytem. We are now back with the default settings. This is the same setting used on the Sixsmith evening.
While I accept that the projection can be improved I think many members are not getting their images properly prepared. Projectors are inherently brighter than your monitor and you must take that into account when preparing your images. Preparing images on a cheaper laptop can be especially risky since the image varies greatly depending on the angle of view.
Not many would agree that mono projected images give a good rendition and they don’t like mono PDIs. Part of this is the perception of what a good mono image is is based on decades of viewing and producing mono prints. The print has a far lower overall brightness than a projected image on a screen – unless it too is being viewed under a high output lamp (which it never would be). The perception works in a different way with colour – there our “standard” is the over-saturated and bright image that we see on our television screens.January 24, 2013 at 3:36 pm #2869
Lots of people and there are “lots” are returning to film for as someone put it- digital mono”s are like photo copies. Film well processed and pro-scanned is pretty good and it would be interesting to see how it projects. Must get myself a projector.The att. film negative taken a few months ago on one of my 50year + Werra”s has not been well processed and still searching for a good processor as past doing it myself. Scanning at home is no good either.January 24, 2013 at 4:13 pm #2873
Personally, in that case I would appreciate some guidelines as to how to prepare mono’s for PDI so they display as well as possible. There must be a formula somewhere. Maybe one of those open evenings could be put to good use to take an image that looks great on the club laptop but rubbish projected and see if there is a simple photoshop fix.January 24, 2013 at 7:24 pm #2874
There is a colour recipe to convert to mono. How do you convert colour to mono. No good in ccamera nor one click fixes.January 24, 2013 at 10:16 pm #2875
Could be explaining what you know-sorry if so -but may help others. On my Serif which is same as Photoshop-to convert colour to mono B/W.this is what I do. Open image/ Click on Adjustment Layers/ click on Black & White-and image is now B/W. On the right will be the adjustments colour scale –and for example on the image opened I have–RED 30–ORANGE 14–YELLOW 36– GREEN 46–CYAN–70–BLUE 11–MAGENTA 41- ADJUST THESE SLIDERS TO GET GOOD MONO FOR PARTICULAR PIC. Its on Layers-so Merge to retain. Lighten a tad to print. Darken a tad for PDI. (this is how I win all the mono cups!!!! )January 24, 2013 at 10:43 pm #2878
This image probably shows col to mono better.January 24, 2013 at 10:54 pm #2880
Thanks Ken. I think the pub one works best. Not sure whether to just darken the whole image in my case or adjust highlights and shadows etc individually.
The mono’s tonight didn’t seem too bad (ok I was worrying over nothing much 😉 ) although I definitely need to work on compensating for the projector as mine always seem a bit bright and lacking in punch compared to what I have on my screen. I will get there. Can’t say I find printing the damned things any easier … but we live and learn. This is only my first season of entering the competitions so I have a long way to go.January 25, 2013 at 8:44 am #2881
Projected mono images tend, as John says above, to be too bright. I’ve been reasonably happy with the projected version of my monos when I’ve lowered the overall exposure before submitting them, but deciding how much the offset should be is a bit hit and miss.
As for processing, I find Silver Efex Pro 2 is really easy to use, offers very detailed control, and gives the best results I’ve ever had. It’s no surprise that it’s the industry standard for pro photographers doing digital mono images. You can get excellent results with other software, including Photoshop (CS / Elements / Lightroom): it’s just harder and takes longer.January 25, 2013 at 1:30 pm #2901
Unfortunately I can’t afford anymore software at the moment although I have long admired the results you get with Silver Efex Ian. I have already tried the 30 day trial but wish I had saved downloading it for when I had something specific to use it on. Something for my wish list.
I suppose I find the look of an image when it is simply darkened beyond what looks good on my screen in the hope it will be all right when projected, a bit of a terrifying prospect when you have only 9 chances in a year to experiment. I am sure I will work it out eventually. I may follow Kens advice and take up knitting instead! 🙂January 25, 2013 at 1:35 pm #2902
Yes, the full price of SEP2 is a problem. (I got mine during my course, so qualified for the education discount.) But you do a good job with the software you have – don’t turn to knitting!!!January 25, 2013 at 3:48 pm #2907
Hi Delores Have just done a smashing deal /upgrade my usual to 6 and Topaz BW and Topaz Simplify for 60 quid inc post. BTW notice pic of week/ what did I post on 3d/ re copying others stuff. LOLJanuary 25, 2013 at 4:23 pm #2908
Sounds like a great deal ken. Send me a link if Topaz is doing an offer again. Shame you missed the comp. I am sure I could have removed your gag and handcuffs for tea and biscuits! 😉 Maybe next time? xJanuary 25, 2013 at 7:54 pm #2910
Another point to remember is to set your monitor to the grey scale John put on the web.Also make sure monitor is set to correct resolution. This example is my approach. The colour original. The one click with no ajustment–R30 O60 Y89 G59 CY. 70 BL 11 MAG. 41 -All I have done on the adjusted is reduce Red to minus 50 which darkens the red boat. —Increase Green to 161 which lightens the grass and minus the Blue to -50 which darkens the shadows. No need to like these-just explain my approach. But soon I will have Topaz Black & White and all click easy.January 26, 2013 at 8:36 pm #2915
Get on the Topaz email list or watch their site for Webinars, sign up for one and at the end they will offer 30% discount.
I am sure Ken will enjoy Topaz B&W. They would be the first to admit (as I have heard OnOne admit too) that the Nik Silver FX is the best mono software but it is expensive. The Topaz gives you a lot of control over the conversion – in a similar fashion to the style Ken refers to. It also has many PRESETS which allow you to try, even faster than a click, many many “treatments” which you can select from and then refine. I use it quite often – but I would still like Nik Silver FX!
Lightroom too offers a number of prests for mono which are very good starting points.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by ajroyle.
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