Your electronic flash duration can be as short as 1/30,000th of a second, though more usually nearer to 1/1000th, so if the flash is providing most of the light it can stop fast action. This is the technique behind getting those marvellous shots of splashing water frozen into fascinating shapes. Using the shortest shutter speed you can with flash (often 1/125th sec) 100 ISO and f8 as a starting point will mean that the flash is doing most of the lighting of the scene and a second flash, fired by trigger, cable or via a hot shoe or built in flash on the camera will provide a way of getting more sparkle and cutting shadows etc. These were the basic settings that George was suggesting. He gave us the lowdown in a short talk and then afterwards we had over an hour to get to grips with things ourselves using the set-ups he provided.
Above you can see splashing water droplets being photographed, in the other sets we had items falling into water and a slice of lemon falling into gin on the rocks (this may have been water with glass “ice cubes”)!
A great evening with George providing the know-how and loads of enthusiasm. Everyone got at least a couple of good shots, it is now up to us to experiment with positioning flash, backgrounds and so on the achieve some real lookers.
Note: After this News item was published Ken posted the following footnote on the Forum about IR triggering. I also noticed that Martin had a device which helped to trigger a flash gun.
There is an infra red remote flash unit only about £30 to trigger flash—additional flash units could be triggered with simple cheap “slave” flash units. To take the guess work out of timing the shot an infra red beam splitting device could be rigged to activate the camera as the dropping subject splits the beam —the flash would “flash” at the same time.————–PhotoTrigger.co.uk —-Splash Art Kit